"Peace is the bread we break/
Love is the river rolling/
Life is the chance we take/
When we make the Earth our home."
Fred Small,"Peace Is"
By late Spring,the country was hurtling towards a deepening recession,oil and food prices were rising, and the sub-prime mortgage crisis was widening.It may have started in the Florida real estate market, but now the financial crisis was nearly nation-wide and its effects were being felt around the world too. As the saying goes,'When the United States economy sneezes,the world catches cold'.We are truly living in a complex ,interdependent world economy.Marshall MacLuhan's vision of a global village had become a reality.Iraq had become the focus issue in the Presidential primaries by the start of the summer too.The next Presidential election would be a referendum on further United States military involvement in Iraq and Afghanistan.
With the country teetering on the brink of economic dire straits,I had wanted to go back to work on a ship operating in the short-sea trade or coastwise.With debts mounting,I knew that I had to decide very soon.I chose a small, aging frieight/container vessel that plied the waters between Dubai,United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, and Port Umm Quasar(forty miles from Basra)Iraq. It gave me the opportunity to observe for myself the social and economic conditions in Iraq.Also, it offered a chance to talk with Iraqi citizens on their fears and hopes for their country.
On June 21, 2008, the first day of summer, I flew out from Philadelphia to join the MV National Glory docked in Dubai. I worked as an able-bodied seaman and quartermaster .The Dubai World port was a bustling hum of activity.Trucks and forklifts moved in streams from the ships to the docks.Shuttles buses made frequent trips bringing workers and stevedores to and from the ships.All kinds of new construction was seen going up everywhere in the city. The flood of petrodollars from the developed states,namely the United States, to the oil-producing developing states fueled the massive expansion and building projects. There has been the greatest transfer of wealth from the developed world to the oil-rich developing states in history.In the past year alone there was almost 2.2 trillion petrodollars that flowed to the oil-producing states worldwide.Is there any wonder why oil and natural gas rich states like Russia, Venezuela, and Iran has attempted to translate their new economic power into global political power?
On the course north by northwest from Dubai to Iraq,the thick haze created from the intense heat, sandstorms, and pollution reduced visibility to barely two or three miles. The ship passed Iran to the East. As we moved further north,the ship was placed under lock down.The four security guards from Secure-West, a British security firm, patroled the ship's weather decks with Chinese-made AK-47's at night. At sea, there were myriads of small sailing vessels called dhows.The blocky dhow had plied the Tigris and Euphrates rivers since ancient times on one of the oldest fishing, trade, and piracy routes in history. The large tankers and freighters weaved their way carefully through the crowded shipping lanes and deftly avoided the many small dhows that popped up suddenly out of the murky ,noonday haze all around .
My first impression of Port Umm Quasar, Iraq was of an aging ,delapidated shadow of a once bustling port.Huge mounds of debris were bulldozed clear of the immediate dock area and left over from the British bombing of the port facilities during the first Persian Gulf War.The huge cargo cranes were broken,rusting hulks with the wiring stripped out by people desperate to find something to sell .The large inoperable cranes were a stark contrast to the many shiny new multi-million dollar cranes in Dubai and Kuwait. We had to rent one of the few mobile cranes with the capacity to unload/load our ship at exorbitant rates. The stevedores were mostly local young men in their 20's .With conditions in their villages ravaged by the incessant fighting between rival militias, the Port was one of the few areas where the young men could find work to support their families. Ironically ,the same age group of young men was also targeted by al-Qaida for their terrorist training camps. Groups of men wandered around the Port in search of any job working on the grain and freight vessels.Some of the men even begged to work for food or a few dollars by offering to wash the truck drivers rigs, tires, windows,or help secure the cargo on the truck. Small children rambled down to the edge of the pier,watched the old men fish in the polluted waters, and even swam among the moss-encrusted concrete pilings.The childish laughter and happy squeals contrasted to the somber group of men seated on hand-woven mats beside their trucks and waiting for work .The children's voices echoed in the intense heat . Temperatures often rose to 130 degrees in July and August by mid-morning.
I spent many hours on gangway watch talking to one of the British security personel on board the National Glory,Howard Couchman.He'd spent several years working in the Middle East after retiring from the Royal Marines. One of the issues we came to agree on was if the gains from the Surge were to be made permanent then Iraq needed to make a concerted effort to attract foreign businesses to invest and develop the country, especially the long neglected,aging petroleum industry,health, education,housing and transportation infrastructure decaying from the years of Sadaam Hussein's dictatorial abuse of power and the wars he waged on his Arab neighbors.No foreign businesses wanted to risk bringing their employees and families to Iraq if they had to be confined to working out of hotels or isolated compounds.
Another issue that Howard and I discussed was the remaining deep-seated animosity and mistrust between the Sunnis and the Shiite-controlled goverment in Baghdad.The United States President was going to have to tread cautiously ,but at times act swiftly and decisively to keep the political momentum towards a lasting ,stable peace and ambitious plans on economic reconstruction alive.The next American President needs to formulate a more clear and coherent strategy for United States involvement in Iraq than President Bush possessed. There must be a workable phased -withdrawal exit strategy agreeable to the Iraqis and Americans, a consistant carrot and stick diplomacy to pressure the Iraqi government for more reforms, greater power-sharing with the Kurds and Sunnis, move forward on the integration of a national army and police force to maintain stability, and a long-term economic reconstruction plan for Iraq that increases regional trade and cooperation and prevent sliding back into renewed violence.There must be a coordinated policy to reenforce the gains that the Surge achieved.The next American President will need to be more honest with the American people on the real risks ,costs ,and domestic sacrifices that will be necessary to fight two wars on global terrorism in Afghanistan and Iraq.